After touring Punjab, we had written (1,2) about the negative externalities associated with paddy cultivation. Normally, 3,000 — 5,000 litres of water are needed to produce a kilogramme of rice. We inferred that this level of water usage is unsustainable (this is reflected by a depleting water table). In a column in the Business Standard, Surinder Sud covers a potential solution to the problem in the form of “aerobic rice cultivation”.
This is exactly the kind of technological innovation that is needed to curb the painful wastage of water associated with growing rice in India. According to Sud, the water saved using this technique can equal a fourth of all the water used in Asia. It seems that China had the method figured out in 2002 and that Pakistan was contemplating a similar practice in 2005.
Previously, we wrote about the negative externality (in the form of water table depletion) associated with paddy cultivation in Punjab. Jyoti Kamal of CNN-IBN has covered the same story in Haryana.
In travelling between Chandigarh, Ludhiana and Amritsar, we made extensive use of inter-city buses, a mode of transport that we had seldom used in India prior to this trip. The bus terminals were well kept, and stocked with cafes, snack shops and bookstores. Bus entry points were numbered and organized according to destination, and makeshift ticket counters were maintained outside each bus.
The first bus we took (Chandigarh to Ludhiana) was air conditioned. The ticket vendor gave us three thin strips of paper with our seat numbers written on them. However, in the bus, we found that our seats were occupied so we just assumed random seats and settled in. Soon enough, our seats were challenged by their rightful patrons, and a massive re-shuffling of seats ensued. We found out that some seats were allocated by ticket issuers to multiple people, and some people were not allocated a seat at all. Everyone whose ticket had no seat number on it was forced to stand.
The rest of our buses were non-a/c, and more similar to the HRTC bus we took from Manali to Chandigarh. The bus made several unofficial stops, where hawkers would jump on to try and sell Fanda (fake Fanta) and other drinks/snacks. The Punjabi movie playing on the bus TV kept riders occupied. Not the most comfortable journey, but economical and educational nonetheless.
Yesterday, an editorial in the Indian Express suggested that farmers in states like Punjab and Haryana have escaped the drought by switching to Basmati cultivation. It lauded the “foresight” of certain regional and national politicians who made strategic investments in irrigation and power. While it is true that these investments are now turning out to be nothing short of life-saving, the negative externalities associated with endowing every farmer with a water pumping set needs to be assessed. During our stay in Punjab, we found out that due to paddy cultivation, the water table in Punjab is falling by 20 feet every year. This is a major problem for a state whose residents rely on groundwater for drinking and whose industries are lamenting water shortage.
Our stay in Ludhiana revolved around multiple factory visits. In the richest district and most populous city of Punjab, we toured a small (Rajnish International), a medium (Avon Cycles) and a large manufacturing unit (Vardhman Spinning). We were fortunate enough to meet the proprietors of 2 of the 3 factories and seek their thoughts on business conditions in India. Specifically, we asked them about the impact of NREGS on their concern.
The Chairman of Rajnish International (an automotive components manufacturer), Mr. Rajnish Ahuja, spoke candidly about the ramifications of NREGS. According to him, the scheme epitomizes “political corruption.” He lamented the inadequate supply of labor from states like Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, which has led to a sharp escalation of wages. According to him, salaries for unskilled labour have gone up by 200-300% as a result of the scheme. This increase in labour costs has compelled him to consider a move towards a capital-intensive production chain. This was evident in the factory as we saw that most of the labour was employed for low skill jobs such as alignment, material moving or handling. Mr. Ahuja believes that the labour force has become lazy due to the availability of free money and has been given unfair bargaining power. For over a decade, he paid INR 2,000/month/head. Now, he must recalibrate that figure.
Outside almost every factory in Ludhiana, we saw ‘wanted’ posters soliciting skilled labour. Due to the pre-existing shortage of skilled manpower, coupled with consequences of NREGS, wages for skilled labour have also gone up. Since factories are cutting down on labour usage in production and are moving towards a more mechanized process, demand for skilled labour seems to have also increased. Again, business owners are slow, if not reluctant, to accept this change. This, we think, is neo-capitalism in India – labour is no longer inexpensive.
In Delhi, we met the Deputy Chairman of the Planning Commission, Dr. Montek Singh Ahluwalia, in order to seek his thoughts on NREGS. He sees the scheme as a “social security provision”, one that is not supposed to train people. When asked about the impact the scheme has had on the industrial sector in the form of a higher wage bill, he acknowledged that this was an intended, and even welcomed, consequence. He did acknowledge that the lack of long term skill development was a concern. About the restrictive approved projects list that NREGS beneficiaries and contractors have to abide by, Dr. Ahluwalia pointed to other public welfare schemes that address the relevant issues. Dr. Ahluwalia urged us to visit a dozen districts where the scheme is being implemented in order to check the actual progress of the programme. This, he felt, would be a meaningful study.
We drove past a special security barricade at the Wagah border to enter a reserved seating zone, excited to witness the ‘Changing of the Guards’ ceremony.
loggers at wagah
It was a stadium setting where Indian stands were full (2,000+ spectators) 2 hours before the event, and Pakistani fans trickled in gradually. On the Indian side, women were given flags and were allowed to run ~20 meters up to the gate and back (foreign women got the loudest cheers). The countries created a competitive atmosphere by playing patriotic pop songs on their loudspeakers, and again, only the Indian women were permitted to dance freely to the tunes. On the Pakistani side, the men were doing the dancing. What transpires before the ceremony begins is a manifestation of Bharat Mata, the belief that India is a feminine entity.
women empowerment at the border
Another aspect of Indian culture that is carried up to the border is accommodation for VIPs. Two rangers were deployed to monitor the reserved seating zone, and these rangers would not allow VIPs to participate in the ceremony because, according to a BSFjawaan, “Dehatis” (or villagers) would be given priority.
jawaans assemble before their marches
The ceremony began at 6:30pm, when 5 jawaans lined up to perform their individual marches. It was a powerful display of intimidation, where rangers pumped up the crowd with energetic kicks and stomps. Fans on both sides chanted patriotic slogans as the guards marched up to the border and stared each other down with their arms flared. Eventually, the gates were violently thrown open and we were able to gaze onto Pakistani soil. The guards on the other side were taller and clad in black uniforms with red waistbands (in our opinion they were more daunting than the Indian jawaans).
Indian jawaan strikes an intimidating pose
Clearly, Wagah embodies the political tension between India and Pakistan, and thereby makes for an exhilarating experience for tourists. It is essentially where 62 years of cross-border conflict meets T20 cricket. It would be nice to see both sides finding a way to popularize a quest for peace in the region for a change. After the stare-down between opposing guards, a friendly handshake may do the trick…or perhaps a hug?
We noticed that the complex was clean and peaceful despite being thronged by thousands of visitors. The walls were decorated by Omega and Baume & Mercier clocks. Bhajans were being played on dozens of strategically placed Bose speakers. After having visited other places of worship around the country, we were taken aback by the advanced technological infrastructure.
The line to enter the main chamber, where the Guru Granth Sahib is kept, was 45 minutes long at 2pm on a Sunday afternoon. Unlike other queues, the path was lined with multiple fans which made the wait comfortable. As live bhajans (prayer songs) were being played on speakers on both sides of the line, people maintained silence and order. Women and men have to cover their heads before entering the premises. As the walk has to be done barefoot, avoid visiting the temple on a hot, sunny day.
Upon entering the chamber, we were blasted with cool air from the Daikin ACs. The main structure is divided into 2 floors and a terrace. We found mini-balconies where we sat individually and absorbed the lake view and the temple atmosphere. We would recommend spending some time in the main temple and also going up to the terrace for the views it offers. While exiting, do try the sheera served by the temple officials.
The temple also has a museum, with paintings and relics depicting the history of the Sikh community. The paintings were surprisingly violent, depicting the murders of religious and political Sikh leaders. Interestingly, the so called ‘terrorists’ of the Blue Star operation of 1984 were classified as heroes by many of the writings alongside photos of the time. A particular caption under a post operation picture of the temple is paraphrased as:
“Thousands of Sikhs were attacked in a calculated move by Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. The event was a uniting force for all Sikhs, and the community soon had its vengeance” (with Indira Gandhi’s assassination)
Jallianwala Bagh, a garden infamous for the bloody incident that sparked an aggressive and urgent struggle for independence from British rule, is a few meters away from the Golden temple. Neat stone tablets at the entrance explained the significance of the area. We were impressed by the maintenance of the site by the Department of Tourism. Important historical landmarks were highlighted and the park, known for its gory past, was manicured to be aesthetically appealing, a great positive for the tourism sector as a whole.
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