Kashmiri Kesar (Saffron)

The one thing that all our moms asked us to bring home from Kashmir was the local saffron. We were told that the best place to procure this would be on the road from Srinagar to Pehelgam. We spotted the shop, located on the farm itself, and learned that 1 gram of saffron was priced at INR300. Suspicious of being taken for a ride, we tried to bargain and walked away when the shop-owner refused to negotiate. Little did we know, that this was the fixed price for saffron in Kashmir and that we had missed our chance to pick up fresh kesar from the farm.

strands of Kashmiri saffron

Travel Tip: How to Test the Authenticity of Saffron

1)      Take a strand of saffron and place in a glass of lukewarm water

2)      Observe. Real saffron should give the water a yellow tinge

3)      Remove the strand and place on a piece of paper

4)      Rub the strand against the sheet. (If it dissolves, it’s real; if not, you are looking at nylon thread)

An Evening with the Zargars

Dr. Jaleel Ahsan Zargar, Lecturer in Philosophy at the Women’s College in Anantnag, hosted us during our trip to Salian in the Seer district of J&K. We discussed the Kashmir issue, topics on Islam, youth exposure to education, and NREGS.

Dr. Zargar and his brother, Qayoom Zargar, share their messages for us:

According to Mr. Qayoom Zargar:

1. The cap on 100 days of employment per annum should be removed.
2. Construction of sanitation facilities, bylanes should be part of the approved projects list.
3. Construction of rain water harvesting facilities should be encouraged under the scheme.
4. More than 1 member of every household should be allowed to work.
5. The spend ratio, labour:equipment (60:40), is too restrictive.

Conversation with Professor Nisar Ali

Nisar Ali:

-Chief coordinator, Post Graduate Centers, University of Kashmir

-Member of State Finance Commission

Professor Ali met with us for tea on a houseboat, where he discussed the economic history of Kashmir, as well as crises facing the region today. 2 important topics were inter-sectoral labour mobility and Kashmir’s inability to effectively tap its water resources for hydro-power.

Push Factors in the Labour Market:

Labour is divided into the primary, secondary and tertiary (services) sectors. Ali applied theories in conflict economics to show that push factors are leading the market towards crisis. Under healthy economic growth, labour generally transitions from the primary sector à secondary sector à services sector. However, Kashmir’s secondary sector has remained stagnant since the 1950s due to a lack of private investment (article 370 and political instability has limited Indian/foreign businesses from coming in). This results in labour getting pushed back from the secondary sector to the primary sector, which is already saturated with employment. Unemployment rises, workers lose bargaining power, wages fall, consumption decreases, prices suffer and so on.

Ali explained that if this first stage of crisis is not effectively addressed, the service sector will also fail to develop. This would result in a second push of labour from the services sector to the primary and secondary sectors. Ali refers to this second stage as explosive crisis, or “the point of no return.”

Water

Human capital and natural resources are abundant in Kashmir, but have not yet been tapped to reach a fraction of the region’s economic potential. There is enough Gypsum to supply all of Asia for 150 years. There is potential to generate 20,000MW of hydropower, enough to power the region and sell surplus to other countries for hefty returns. However, articles such as the 1960 Indus Waters Treaty are preventing such development from taking place. Under this international law, 6 river basins are divided between India and Pakistan. India was given rights over the Ravi, Beas and Satlug rivers (all run through Punjab), and Pakistan was given rights to the Chenab, Jhelum and Indus (all run through J&K). India has to seek Pakistani clearance for any infrastructural project involving the J&K rivers, and as a result, dams cannot be created to generate even 10% of the region’s potential in hydropower. A state that should be selling surplus power to neighboring regions is plagued by electricity shortages throughout the year.

The Rangarajan committee recommendations, if implemented, will end the Kashmir crisis. The Kashmir crisis stems from the power issue. –Professor Nisar Ali

A message to investors from Nisar Ali:

Dachigam National Park

During our visit to the Dachigam National Park in Srinagar, the park Ranger allowed us to access a private area of the park. We bypassed a beautiful house[1] constructed by the Maharaja of Kashmir as a hunting lodge, and then trekked a few kilometers searching for black bears and endangered musk deers (hanguls).

Rest stop in Dachigam

Along the way, we were entertained by a guide, who bragged about his unparalleled knowledge of botany and zoology. To his dismay and ours though, we were unable to spot any of the endangered animals he promised to show us. We ended up seeing a lot of bear feces, and kept ourselves busy by making mating calls to Kashmiri wobblers.

All in all, it was a refreshing 3-hour walk through nature- a great change of pace from the rest of our appointments.

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[1] The house is currently used by the Chief Minister of J&K as a holiday home

Srinagar — Leh

Under the sadness of leaving behind everything we had experienced in Srinagar, was our excitement to explore Leh. The ride began with an elaborate price negotiation process outside the tourist taxi center in Srinagar. While official taxi operators charged INR 9100 for the journey, we managed to strike a deal with a Leh taxi driver who was on his way back home. Interestingly, he is not allowed to solicit customers from Srinagar due to union politics, and was hence willing to give us a hefty discount (we paid INR 6500).

The non-air conditioned Toyota Innova picked us up at 8:30 am, and drove towards Leh after picking up the driver’s uncle and girlfriend. This company was certainly unexpected, and we regretted not having discussed these elements in our negotiation. After driving through Sonmarg, Drass and Kargil on a bumpy road (those with weak back, heart and respiratory conditions should not attempt this drive), we reached Leh at 10:00 pm. It was one of the most serene drives we’ve done.

Intangibly, Kashmiriyat is absorbed by the mountains and a different face of India in the form of Ladakhi lifestyle appears. This graceful transition is perhaps a chapter of Indian accommodation.

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Gems found along the way:

-Drive on road, drink on bed

-Pay attention to safety, so you can reach home for tea

-Drink and drive, you won’t survive

-If married, divorce speed

-Short cuts may short cut your life

-Better be Mr. Late than Late Mr.

-Live for your today, drive for your tomorrow

-Road is hilly, don’t drive silly

-A cat has nine lives, but not the one who drives

-If you sleep, your family will weep

-Don’t be Gama in the land of Lama

-On the bend, go slow friend

-Don’t race don’t rally, enjoy the valley

-This is a highway not a runway

-Speed is a knife that cuts life

-Love thy neighbor but not while driving

Conversation with Dr. Haseeb Drabu, Chairman of J&K Bank

We were fortunate to get an appointment with Dr. Haseeb Drabu, Chairman of J&K Bank, during our stay in Srinagar. Upon entering his office space, we found him seated on a couch by the coffee table, browsing on his Sony netbook. He casually acknowledged us as we walked in.

We began the meeting by quizzing Dr. Drabu on Kashmiri affairs, using our meticulously prepared question sheet. He spoke about the economic stagnation that Kashmir is facing as a result of the political deadlock. After several interactions in Kashmir, we also found that the sheer number of stakeholders in this deadlock has resulted in a prolonged resolution-seeking process. He also talked about the importance of seeking resolutions for day-to-day problems, rather than tracing everything back to the larger “Kashmir issue.”

A major topic of discussion was cultural assimilation in India. As Drabu said, “We need to stop focusing on what’s tearing this country apart, and start focusing on what’s holding it together.” He was pointing out that India is a country of 18 languages, nearly every world religion and various shades of skin. He said that “assimilation should not result in homogenization”, and that this diversity must be respected in order for India to develop into a unified world power.

He also touched upon the short-sightedness among Kashmiris that plagues this region. The people are concerned for the immediate-run, like how to afford tonight’s dinner and this month’s cell-phone bill, and not the medium to long-run, like finding a high-paying job in the private sector that would help them buy a new house. The comfort in maintaining a government job creates the lethargy that hampers competitiveness and economic development. Further, he conveyed faith in the Kashmiri political establishment and the young leaders who are in charge (the majority of J&K’s political leadership is under 40). He sounded optimistic about the sincere effort from the government to engage the youth of Kashmir, which is currently cynical and disconnected from political affairs.

Soon into the discussion, we witnessed a candid Dr. Drabu whose raw vocabulary struck a chord. In short, he told us to chill out, enjoy our travels, and that the only thing left to be done is for businesses to spot the potential of investing in Kashmir.

There’s an old Wall Street saying that says, ‘Invest when there’s blood on the streets.’ There is blood on these streets, so do it. –Dr. Haseeb Drabu

Encounter with an Ex-militant

We met Aftab (alias Shahidul Islam) and his 2 daughters beside the royal spring at Chashm-E-Shahi[1]. Aftab was a commander in Hizbullah (a Pan-Islamist militant outfit not to be confused with the Lebanese Hezbollah), who gave up the gun in favor of the separatist movement led by the Hurriyat Conference. His story has been well documented by David Devadas in In Search of a Future.

In sharp contrast to Haseeb Drabu, who generated excitement about investment prospects in Kashmir, Aftab took our meeting as an opportunity to instigate skepticism about the future of the region. We talked about the logic behind the separatist movement, and found several flaws in his reasoning. Firstly, he did not have anything to say about the administrative capabilities of the Hurriyat organization, which stands as a voice for Kashmiris wanting independence. Secondly, when questioned about the effectiveness of Indian security forces in Kashmir (who have been deployed in large numbers to combat militancy), he showed his contempt by asking us why he should be frisked by outsiders when moving within his home state. He said that the drastic reduction in militant presence over the past 10 years has nothing to do with Indian security, but is simply a result of political instability in Pakistan. In Aftab’s words, “Kashmir will burn again if Pakistan decides to give the signal.”

Clad in a Burberry t-shirt and Rayban sunglasses, Aftab juggled the responsibility of a father and a political spokesman. He shared a particularly grim anecdote involving his baby daughter, who once encouraged him to join a ragda (a demonstration) for azadi (independence). Even though he said that his ultimate goal was for his daughters to lead a life free from political struggle, he was also beaming with pride when describing his child’s politically charged gestures.

Before wrapping up, we asked why he spent so many years as a militant. Aftab smiled and pointed at a print of Che Guevara on one of our T-shirts and said, “I am doing what he did, we are all just freedom fighters.” Aftab then treated us to ice-cream and we sought his email address, which still consists of his militant name, Shahidul Islam. We appreciate his courage in parting from his violent past and sharing his thoughts with us. However, the inconsistency in his beliefs was troubling.

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[1] A garden dating back to the Mughal period, from which Indira Gandhi apparently had a bottle of water flown to Delhi every evening.

Comment of the Day

“Maine army do karan join ki – pehle pet, doosra desh, kyunki pet ke bina desh ki sewa kaise karoon”

(I joined the army for two reasons, first to feed my stomach, and second to serve my country, because to serve the country I need to keep myself well fed)

- Jawaan (soldier) in Pehelgam

Travel Lesson #1

We learnt that food in restaurants/dhabas is cooked with excessive amounts of oil (in Kashmir and perhaps other parts of India). Make sure you ask for less oil in your food.

Notes from our Conversation with Yusuf Tarigami

About Yusuf Tarigami:

-3^rd time MLA (Member of the Legislative Assembly) from Kulgam

-Head honcho, CPI-M (Communist Party of India- Marxist)

-Won his election seat by a 200-vote margin

Discussion:

-We addressed Tarigami by saying “a-salaam walakum.” This prompted his comments on how people’s mannerisms carry religious connotations, pointing out that even popular ringtones are increasingly religious in nature. He stated that religion, a force meant to unite people, has become a dividing force between the people of Kashmir.

- T drew similarities between quit Kashmir (National Conference movement) and Quit India (Indian National Congress movement) in 1947, in that they both had a plural agenda, and an ideological common ground.

- Biggest challenge before the region is saving the fragile unity from further disintegration. For this to happen, discontentment needs to be recognized (“Not communalism, but ‘majoritarianism’ in India, is the biggest issue”)

- According to T, Kashmiris have remained sensitive about their identity, due to their sense of insecurity, and their sense of belonging

- Militancy is now being seen as counterproductive by Kashmiris, and this is an opportunity to fix the trust deficit that exists between the various stakeholders involved in the Kashmir issue. “Kashmir cannot forever be on a hostile map”.

- Peace in Kashmir can only come after peace between India and Pakistan. However, T said that “Pakistani claim [on Kashmir] is contrary to our ethos and the emergence of Pakistan is a harsh reality”

- Democratizing existing political and administrative structures is important. The panchayati raj system for instance, is a bit autocratic.

- District development authorities that exist in Leh and Kargil may be models for replication in Kashmir and Jammu.

- Politics is a reflection of economics. Political and economic development can be simultaneous. However, economic development needs to be sensitive to the Kashmiri eco system, and agriculture based industries “can be worked out”

- On water resource division, T said that “We [in Kasmir] are not getting our dues”.

Reliance Netconnect vs. TATA Photon (Pehelgam, Anantnag, Seer)

To our dismay, neither the Netconnect nor the Photon had connectivity in any of the three cities. It seems like Reliance NotConnect was just joined by Tata Photoff.

Sights and Bites in the Valley

We stopped at a village called Salian en route from Pehelgam to Shopian, where we were warmly hosted by Dr. Jaleel Ahsan, Professor of Philosophy at the Government College for Women in Anantnag. We traveled the locality with the professor, and were amazed by some of the things we saw.

Our first stop was Hutmurah, one of the few villages in Kashmir with a substantial Hindu population. Hindus here mingle actively with the Muslim and Sikh population. This is one of the only places in Kashmir where Hindu Brahmins did not flee for mainland India during the militancy of the early 1990’s. Symbolically, we visited a complex that housed a Temple, Gurudwara, and Mosque– a living example of communal harmony in Kashmir.

The second interesting stop was the ruins of a sun temple in the village of Kehribal in Martand district. This temple is known to have been built by the Pandava rulers, and dates back a couple of thousand years. Carvings on the wall are still visible, and speak greatly of the architecture of the time. Interestingly, none of us had heard about this place in our independent Kashmir research. Given the historic and possibly mythological significance of the site, we recommend every tourist to check it out.

The Pandava Temple Ruins

We visited a second Temple-Mosque-Gurudwara complex in the town of Anantnag, before heading to Professor Ahsan’s house, where we were fortunate to experience true Kashmiri ‘mehman-nawazi’. We had our dinner in true Kashmiri fashion, and relished the richness of authentic Kashmiri food.

Typical Kashmiri Dinner

Kehwa (saffron tea) and Kulcha (flatbreads)

Batting on NH1

On NH1A (National Highway 1A), on our way from Srinagar to Pahalgam, we passed several Kashmiri Willow cricket bat stores. We stopped at one just before the “green tunnel,” a road completely enclosed by trees on both sides- so much so that the sky is invisible. At the shop, we learned that what costs INR2,500 in a sports shop in Mumbai is available here for INR250 pre-negotiation. The bats are categorized into “tennis-ball cricket” bats and “leather-ball cricket” bats. You can find every possible brand logo from Kookaburra to Reebok and sponsors stickers such as MRF.

In the absence of a leather ball, the shopowner tested the bat strength by clanging two bats together, clearing our minds of any doubt whatsoever:

Interestingly, we also stopped at a saffron vendor who quoted INR300 per gram despite being located at the farm itself. Unlike the cricket bat store, there was no arbitrage opportunity here! One explanation is that we were probably charged a tourist premium. Another is that cricket bats are harder to transport for a tourist, than a few grams of saffron. The price to incentivize tourists to buy cricket bats must thus be lowered significantly in order to convince tourists to carry the bats home.

Shikara Ride on the Dal

After a meeting with Nisar Ali, Chief Coordinator of Post-Graduate Studies, University of Kashmir and member of the state Finance Commission (more on that later), we sat down for nun-chai (salty Kashmiri tea) with a friendly houseboat owner.

nun-chai and Chochuru (Kashmiri bagels)

The octogenarian houseboat owner told us that this was his family business and that his father and he had managed the business for 2 generations. He introduced us to his son, Basheer, who, despite his mother’s reservations, migrated to the US to pursue a career in medical technology. Basheer is now based in Los Angeles where he works in the radiology department of a local hospital. He lives in Srinagar during the summer months and is in the process of building a house here. Since we are interested in unearthing evidence of intergenerational economic mobility, we found his story compelling. When asked about his family, Basheer mentioned that he wants his children (2 daughters) to pursue their education in Srinagar until they are 15 to instill local cultural values.

After our rendezvous with Basheer we boarded our Shikara on the Nageen Lake. The 1.5 hour ride took 5 of us from the New Majestic House Boat to the Dal lake gate for INR 500.

Common Shikara

During the ride we saw an active lake-community , which included shops for vegetables, handicrafts, carpets, telecom and pharmaceuticals. The majority of the population belongs to the Shia sect of Islam. The market was open despite the city-wide strike. A large part of the community has been developed illegally. As the lake economy is thriving, the size of the Dal lake itself is decreasing- a negative externality for a state whose primary industry is tourism.

Reflections

Reliance Netconnect vs. TATA Photon (Srinagar)

Round 1 goes to TATA Photon!

Reliance Netconnect: No network coverage (more like reliance NOTconnect)

TATA Photon:

Day 1

With tickets purchased on Yatra for INR 2791 (inclusive of taxes et cetera), we walked in to the low cost airline terminal of the CSA airport, Mumbai.  Upon arrival at 2pm (flight time 2.5 hrs) in Srinagar, we made our way to our local host and mentor, David Devadas’ residence in Rajbagh. David is the author of `In Search of a Future, the Story of Kashmir’. Over adrak chai, samosas and vegetable patties, we spoke about the ubiquitous security personnel in multiple shades of khaki and goodwill messages on barricades. We learnt that the security cover tends to be heavy on Fridays as Muslims gather at local mosques for jumma prayers. Today was the first peaceful Friday in 5 months.

After the intro to Kashmir talk by David, we headed to Lal Chowk (Srinagar’s city center) via streets sprayed with bunkers, Jammu & Kashmir’s only flyover anhd the outskirts of Bakhshi Stadium. As we drove through the city, we absorbed the mystic concept of Kashmiriyat evident in polite manners and eclectic architecture. Lal Chowk, up until now, had been part of unpleasant headlines in the news. Today we discovered gushtaba and rista (beaten, not minced meatballs) and tuj, bookstores and stock brokers on-looking a volatile crossroad.

Gushtaba & Rista at Lal Chowk

We made an interesting discovery as we pondered over what we saw and heard. As visitors, we thought of every security checkpoint as a comforting factor that mitigated our preconceived fears about a region prone to violence. To understand the political turmoil that has come to define Kashmir over the years, we spoke to Shaukat Motta, editor of Conveyor who gave us a factual account of ideologies that have shaped the issues that plague this region. We realized during this interaction however, that even the most peace loving Kashmiris thought of security checkpoints as unnecessary intrusions. This discrepancy taught us something. It forced us to think of the root causes of this major difference in attitude towards the army, and thus towards the government it seeks to defend. We thought of, and discussed, the region’s political history, its economic profile, and the cultural influences that condition its people, realizing that there was no one root cause – but a combination of factors that account for such attitude. We hope to discover and understand more as we go along.

We walked most of the distance home from Lal Chowk, and crossed the Jhelum on a Shikara – an enamoring experience in itself. We came home with many of our presumptions shattered, and perhaps with many new ones developed. Importantly, we came home with many new unanswered questions.

Kashmir

More pictures from Srinagar here.